The Importance of Meat Quality for Dry-Curing

We received the following question from Santino D’Amario on the Curesmith-Aged and Cured Meats Facebook Group.

QUESTION:

Hello, I made some Soppressata not to long ago and it really came out well. Looks good and taste well. Only thing I’ve noticed in some pieces is that I will get some hard fat spots. Looks good, taste good but have noticed that for sure. The quality of the fat that I used? Just curious to hear some thoughts on that. Thanks.

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You can also view a video I did 2 years ago on meat quality:

ANSWER:

Santino’s question directly concerns meat quality. Although he only purchased back fat, which is relatively inexpensive, it is essential to note that even here, paying attention to the quality you purchase is essential. The fat, probably the cheapest ingredient, has spoiled what could have been a delicious soppressata.

Here are some immediate reasons why Snatino’s pork fat may be problematic:

Fat Composition

The hardness of pork back fat can also depend on its composition of fatty acids. Pork fat generally contains a significant amount of saturated fat, which is more prone to hardening at cooler temperatures than unsaturated fats. The exact ratio of saturated to unsaturated fats in pork back fat can vary based on the pig’s diet and genetics.

Age and Diet of the Pig

Older pigs tend to have harder fat because their body fat contains more saturated fatty acids, which are more solid at room temperature. Additionally, the pig’s diet influences the firmness of the fat; for example, pigs fed on a diet high in fibrous or foraged foods may develop firmer fat compared to those fed with commercial grain-based feeds rich in unsaturated fats.

Processing and Rendering

The method by which pork back fat is processed can affect its hardness. Rendering, the process of melting the fat to separate it from other components, can alter its consistency, making it more complicated once it cools and re-solidifies.

Storage Conditions

How the back fat is stored can also influence its hardness. Exposure to air can lead to oxidation, affecting the taste and smell and changing the texture, typically making it harder and sometimes even grainy.

But this leads into the critical topic of meat quality in general, and I will use this opportunity to share a modified extract from the book I am busy writing.

Essential Guide to Selecting Quality Meat for Dry-Curing

Dry-curing meat is a culinary art that blends traditional techniques with a scientific understanding of meat quality. For enthusiasts and professionals alike, the quality of meat influences the final product and dictates the success of the curing process itself. This article delves into the complexities of selecting high-quality meat for dry-curing, focusing on pork— a popular choice for many cured delicacies.

Understanding Meat Quality in the Pork Industry

The pork industry lacks a universal definition for meat quality, making it a subjective field with various market-dependent standards. Quality assessment involves subjective impressions and objective measurements such as colour, pH, water holding capacity, firmness, marbling, and taste. Each of these factors plays a crucial role in determining the suitability of pork for dry-curing.

The Significance of Colour

In simple terms, pork’s colour can be categorised as pale (P), red (R), or dark (D).

Colour plays a crucial role in consumer choice. Fresh pork must be visually appealing, as the colour of the meat often makes the first impression.

Pale-coloured pork tends to turn grey or green when displayed in a grocery store, which can make it less appealing to consumers. On the other hand, from a consumer perspective, red is the most desirable colour, often associated with freshness and quality.

But sly tricks are also used to ensure that the meat looks reddish. Knowing where your meat comes from will undoubtedly mitigate this risk.

The Role of pH in Meat Quality

We have previously discussed pH levels, but here is a brief recap: the pH level indicates the acidity or alkalinity of the meat. Our ultimate goal for achieving a shelf-stable product is to reduce the pH to below 5.3.

However, it’s important to note that a lower pH in a harvested carcass doesn’t necessarily mean it’s better for our curing process. The pH level also plays a critical role in determining the quality of the meat.

Live muscle typically has a neutral pH ranging from 7.0 to 7.2. As it transitions into meat post-slaughter, the pH level drops, making it more acidic. The rate of this change and the final pH level are crucial in determining pork quality.

pH is usually measured within one hour of slaughter (initial pH) or 24 hours (or ultimate pH or pHu).

If the initial pH is below 5.8, the pork is considered undesirable because it indicates that the pH has dropped too quickly. This meat typically has an ultimate pH below 5.5 and is classified as PSE (Pale, Soft, and Exudative) in the industry.

Conversely, meat with an ultimate pH above 6.1 may be classified as DFD (Dark, Firm, and Dry), indicating that the pH did not drop to normal levels.

The preferred initial pH ranges are between 6.7 and 6.3, and for ultimate pH between 6.1 and 5.7, such meat will be classified as RFN (Red, Firm, and Non-exudative) as indicated in the table above.

For home curesmiths, managing this process can be challenging since you are likely purchasing from a butcher or meat supplier. I must emphasise the importance of meat quality: if you are serious about curing meat, it is crucial to establish a strong relationship with your meat supplier. Communicate your needs to ensure you obtain the highest quality meat, and if possible, process the meat as soon after it has been harvested as possible.

Water Holding Capacity (WHC)

WHC is defined as the ability of meat to retain its inherent water during force application and/or processing (such as grinding, curing, and thermal processing) as well as the water added during manufacturing meat products. Myofibrils play a crucial role in the water-holding capacity of meat. Losses of water can occur through evaporation, gravitational drip, thawing, or cooking.

Several factors influence WHC: antemortem factors include genetics, animal production practices, carcass chilling, and stress, while postmortem factors are primarily related to the transformation of muscle into meat (mainly pH), heating, and the addition of other components (Cheung & Mehta, 2015).

This characteristic directly relates to the meat’s texture (or “wetness”). The texture can be classified as soft and exudative (SE), firm and normal (FN), or firm and dry (FD).

Soft and exudative (SE) meat fails to hold its shape, and moisture visibly drips. This type of meat is often associated with a pale colour, known as PSE (pale, soft, and exudative). When cooked, soft and exudative meat tends to be drier and tougher, making it less desirable to consumers; it also performs poorly when processed into products like sausages.

Both firm and normal (FN) and firm and dry (FD) meat are considered acceptable in the meat industry and by consumers, with FN being particularly favoured for our purposes.

When we consider all these factors together, quality is ranked as follows:

(RFN) – Red, Firm & Normal
(DFD) – Dark, Firm & Dry
(RSE) – Red, Soft & Exudative
(PSE) – Pale, Soft & Exudative

The Impact of Marbling and Taste

The quality of pork is directly influenced by the animal’s lifestyle and the conditions under which it was harvested.

It’s important to note that pigs are omnivores with remarkably non-discriminatory eating habits. Moreover, pigs are unique in that they often taste like what they consume, more so than many other animals.

In commercial settings, pigs are typically fed processed feeds comprised of various grains and sometimes by-products from other food industries such as distilleries, breweries, and cheesemakers. Due to the diverse inputs into their diet, the resulting flavour of the pork can vary significantly.

The presence of marbling in pork—a key indicator of quality—essentially results from the amount and quality of fat the pig accumulates. Achieving desirable marbling involves a proper feeding regimen and allowing the pigs to engage in natural behaviours such as foraging and burrowing.

Some of the most prized varieties of ham owe their distinctive flavours directly to the specific diets of the pigs. These unique feeding practices create exceptional and sought-after flavours in the meat.

OK, BUT I AM A HOME CURESMITH – HOW AM I GOING TO CHECK ALL THAT?

Yes, reading the details provided above might seem overwhelming—how are you expected to apply these principles? While I’ve included this information to help you understand what determines meat quality, you don’t need to handle this process yourself (unless you plan to raise your own pigs for slaughter, in which case it would be beneficial to study the quality of your animals).

All you need is to find a reliable meat supplier. The ideal option is to connect directly with an organic farmer (ensure they can provide you with a quality assurance document). One potential challenge, however, is that farmers may require you to purchase the entire animal. This could be impractical if you must process the carcass in your home kitchen.

Additionally, there are legal regulations governing the harvesting and sale of livestock. Farmers may be prohibited from selling meat directly to consumers without the necessary licensing. Abattoirs, which usually handle livestock processing, also conduct inspections for any potential diseases. (These facilities will perform the earlier tests and categorise the carcasses according to our discussed criteria.)

It’s essential to research the laws in your country or state to determine the most appropriate way to purchase high-quality meat that complies with health and safety standards.

If buying directly from a farmer isn’t feasible, consider developing a relationship with a local butcher or meat supplier.

What the pig eats is what you taste

As discussed above, one of the most notable characteristics of pork is that it distinctly reflects the flavours of its diet. By establishing a good relationship with your supplier, you can ascertain the origins of the pork and learn about the pigs’ diet. This influence is particularly noticeable in cured meats, especially whole-muscle cures, where few additional aromatics are used to flavour the meat. To demonstrate how diet affects meat quality, here are some renowned examples:

Parma Ham

Parma Ham, originating from the area surrounding the city of Parma in Italy, is arguably the most renowned dry-cured ham globally. This region is also celebrated for Parmalat dairy products and Parmigiano cheese. A key stipulation from the Parma Ham Consortium is that the pigs designated for Parma Ham must be fed the whey produced during the Parmigiano cheese-making. This special diet imparts a distinctive flavour to the Parma Hams, enhancing their unique taste profile.

Jamon Bellota

The most celebrated pigs are the black-footed pigs of Spain, commonly referred to as Pata Negra. Jamon Bellota is exclusively produced from these pigs, primarily consuming acorns in the oak forests where they roam. This diet, rich in walnuts and especially acorns, infuses Bellota with its signature sweet and nutty flavour, distinguishing it from other cured meats.

Keep It Fresh

Butchers, suppliers, and farmers often age meat by hanging it as rigour mortis sets in. When an animal dies, it stops receiving oxygen to its muscles, triggering chemical reactions within the meat. Shortly after death, these reactions cause the muscles to contract, leading to the stiffening known as rigour mortis. Hanging meat allows specific processes to continue that would otherwise cease in a deceased animal. The muscles use the haemoglobin stored in the soft tissues, producing lactic acid. Enzymatic activity in the meat softens and makes the muscle fibres more elastic, resulting in relaxed and tender meat. However, this meat is generally not suitable for dry-cured products.

The muscles remain relaxed in the hours before rigour mortis sets in—this is the optimal time to process the meat for dry-curing. The freshness of the meat at this stage is crucial because, as discussed earlier in the book, microbial activity increases with each passing moment. Our goal is to produce shelf-stable products efficiently, and obtaining the meat as soon as possible gives you greater control over microbial activity.

You must communicate with your butcher or supplier that you need the meat as fresh as possible, specifically requesting that it not be aged or hung. Determine the days when fresh meat is delivered so you can arrange to collect it then.

If you cannot obtain the meat before rigour mortis begins, you must wait until the ageing process has relaxed the muscles again. However, during this time, it’s critical to adhere strictly to hygiene protocols, as the meat will have been exposed to more microbes, although kept at temperatures that slow microbial proliferation.

The Effects of Animal Welfare

There is a growing body of evidence suggesting that animal welfare has a direct impact on the quality of meat they produce. Stress-free environments for livestock lead to better meat quality, with improved texture and flavour profiles. Stress can cause biochemical changes in the meat, leading to faster spoilage and reduced quality. Consequently, meat from animals that have been well cared for is superior for curing, yielding a product that is tastier and more consistent.

The Supermarket Conundrum

If you purchase meat from a supermarket, it’s essential to understand that it has likely been aged before packaging. Studies have shown that meat sold in supermarkets can be up to 13 days old. Furthermore, supermarkets typically do not employ a resident butcher or expert. The staff at the meat counter usually serve primarily as customer assistants, and it’s unlikely that you’ll be able to forge a relationship with someone knowledgeable enough to provide the detailed information we’ve discussed in this section.

For these reasons, I am generally reluctant to buy meat for dry-curing at supermarkets. However, I must acknowledge that I know several experienced home curers who produce exceptional cured meats using only supermarket-sourced meat.

Look What I Got On Sale!

Please avoid purchasing meat on “special” or “sale” at your meat supplier for making dry-cured meat. Typically, these discounts indicate that the product is nearing its “use by” date, and the supplier is looking to sell it at a reduced price rather than incur a total loss. At this stage, it should be clear that this meat might not be ideal for producing high-quality dry-cured meat and is better suited for immediate cooking.

The moral of the story

Home cooks face various challenges when purchasing meat, and many of the suggested strategies mentioned above may not be feasible. In closing, I would advise that you buy the best quality meat that you can afford and obtain. This will significantly enhance the quality of your final product, giving you a superior slice on the board!

AUTHOR STATEMENT

The writer acknowledges that they have not had direct access to the product and thereby makes the statement:

This article/ document is based on a question/s provided and may include photos and/or other materials. It is not meant as final advice but rather a guide. The reader should read this article/ document with the Health and Safety Disclaimer provided at the end and follow their country’s governmental health and safety guidelines for meat curing.

Health and Safety Disclaimer

This website references curing meat and emphasises the importance of adhering to strict health and safety protocols. Readers are strongly urged to consult and follow their country’s governmental health and safety guidelines for meat curing. The author and any associated agents disclaim all liability for any harm, illness, or damages resulting from improperly applying the practices discussed in this document and/or non-compliance with applicable health and safety standards by their country’s governmental health and safety guidelines for meat curing. Compliance with this disclaimer and all referenced guidelines is critical for ensuring safe and healthy meat curing processes.

If you have any doubts or require further clarification on utilising this document safely and effectively, please CONTACT US.

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